Size IT 44: Best for an IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS or an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S. Can also be worn by women sized between UK 12/US 8 and UK 8/US 4.
Helmut Lang sleeveless bondage jacket from S/S 2000. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.
While Lang's sought to emphasise airiness and fluidity through its simple shapes and translucent fabrics, Helmut Lang Jeans took a different direction. The cutting-edge streetwear shown on previous collections was refined to a new level of sophistication. Although these garments were not included in the runway presentation, they are certainly worth the attention of Helmut Lang collectors. A/W 1999's much-coveted biker pieces were reinterpreted in summer-weight materials, while the distinctive neck rest collar (inspired by the shape of travel pillows) became a prominent feature on both men's and women's outerwear. Unusual technical fabrics, harness straps, large cargo pockets and cut-out button plackets gave an aggressive edge to the garments.
Liner vests like this piece are one of Helmut Lang's most recurrent men's designs. They were first introduced in the designer's A/W 1990 collection and new iterations were produced every season that followed. This rare iteration is an adaptation of a design presented on the A/W 1998 runway (pictured), and is crafted from soft double-faced cotton jersey. The white shell has a fleecy texture with a fine corded surface, while the underside is a compact jersey in a heather grey hue. The two fabrics are bonded together to create a stretchy and substantial material with a futuristic appearance. The vest's streamlined design features subtle references to military garments; the neckline has an MA-1 bomber-style collar, while the front has a simple zipper closure and Lang's typical rectangular chest pocket.
Furthermore, the jacket features the designer's distinctive bondage straps. The intricate construction of the interior allows for the piece to be carried on the shoulders like a backpack, or strapped to the body like a harness. When the jacket is worn casually, the straps hang below the jacket's hem, giving a covertly perverse character to the otherwise minimalist design. The silhouette is fitted with a straight body.
As it is to be expected from Helmut Lang, the piece exhibits an abundance of well thought-out features. The thick fabric's edges are finished with heavy overlocking throughout. The interior has a single pocket, positioned precisely at the same location as the exterior pocket to ensure that it remains invisible from the outside. The bondage elements are made from herringbone cotton tape and consist of two vertical straps for carrying and an adjustable horizontal strap that secures with D-rings. The reinforced area where the carrying straps fasten has been topstitched directly on the jacket's back, creating a linear outline that is unexpectedly decorative.
To conclude, this piece is a definitive example of Lang's much-coveted streetwear. Worn as outerwear or as a layering piece, its cutting-edge materials and distinctive interior straps will make a directional statement.
